Alaska #11

Here I sit at the end of the Kenai Peninsula in Homer Alaska. We ended up at a resort called Land’s End that is on the very end of Homer Spit as far south west as you can go into Kachemak Bay, which connects with the Gulf of Alaska. How we got here is an interesting story. We left today headed for Seward, which is a fishing village on the coast south of Anchorage. The scenery as you skirt the edge of Turnagain Arm (named by Captain John Cook who had to turn around again when he discovered Turnagain Arm was also not the Northwest Passage) is incredible. The mountains were high, close and snow covered. We encountered drop arms along the highway (like a RR crossing) that allow them to close the highway when avalanches happen. Often we would see a sign “Avalanche Zone No Stopping”. We saw the remnants of many avalanches some that covered the road and the railroad tracks that run alo ng side.

The tides are famous in Turnagain Arm rising and falling 40-50 feet. The tide was going out as we drove alongside the Arm, and due to the ice chunks floating in the water we could see the speed of the tide. It looked like the water was moving about 15 mph. We left the coastline and started climbing up into the mountains. We could see the snow coming down in the passes. We arrived at Turnagain Pass where it was snowing heavily and they were using a giant snow blower to clear the road. After we passed through the pass (where snow was piled up 50 feet at the side of the road) we stopped at a rest area. We met a local fellow who suggested we would really appreciate Homer better than Seward. He told us about hundreds of bald eagles that congregate there. We made an on the go decision, and decided to go for the extra 120 miles it would take to Homer.

We stopped for lunch at the Sunrise Café just past the turn off to Homer. They had buffalo chili on the menu, and 3 of us went for some form of that. In addition they had great hand cut French fries, homemade coleslaw, pasta salad and pies. The food was great, and we enjoyed the local rustic surroundings with a view to die for out the window. Most of the rest of the drive was a little bland with the scenery consisting mostly of trees and road. A few little villages livened up the trip. Finally we came into Homer, and stopped at the scenic view just outside of town. What a sight it was. The bay all spread out below surrounded by snow-capped mountains with the sun shining on them. From the scenic view, the road descended a couple miles into Homer with mountains and volcanoes on all sides. We made our way through Homer, looking over the various motels till we reached The Spit at th e end of town. The Spit is a tiny strip of land that hangs 4.5 miles off the end of the peninsula. We drove to the end past hundreds of fishing boats and summer tourist trap stuff all boarded up for the winter. At the end we found the Land’s End Resort. The girls went in and checked it out. They offered a getaway special that included lodging, dinner, and discounts at the bar.

They also told us the “Eagle Lady” did her thing right next door every morning. The Eagle Lady of Homer, Jean Keene, is a woman who has been feeding bald eagles in this location since 1980. Most of the food is donated by local fisheries and residents. Before she starts the annual feeding she has to have enough food to last through the winter. Once feeding has begun it has to be done daily regardless of the weather. Bald eagles start congregating on the Homer Spit in mid November and most are gone by mid April. Some of the eagles come from as far as 160 miles away. Many of the eagles are juveniles. The normal survival rate for these young birds is about 50% because they have not yet become proficient hunters. Winter feeding elevates the survival rate to about 75%. Observers and photographers are welcome at the feeding. Miss Vickie called and talked to Jean, the Eagle Lady, to confirm the time of morning feeding. We plan to be there for the photo opportunity.

Wow we were just sitting here watching the sun going down across the bay, and a bald eagle flew right over our deck. We also saw some seals feeding directly in front of our room. There must be abundant small fish in the water just off our deck. There are thousands of sea birds rafted up in smooth water spots. As the sun sets, some mountain peaks are lighted and some are in shadow. It changes by the minute. This is one of those places that you could never believe until you see it. It’s really off the beaten path in the winter season.

We had a great dinner at the Land’s End restaurant last night. The meal is included in their getaway package, and included a glass of good wine. Jerry had Alaskan king crab, Vickie had local salmon grilled, Brenda had grilled halibut, and I had a grilled seafood plate that included halibut, scallops and shrimp. The food was great, and we met a nice local couple that filled us in on a lot of things from around here. Later we retired to our rooms for a good nights sleep in one of the best beds of the trip.

This morning we had the usual continental breakfast. (seems like there is a deluxe continental breakfast kit you must be able to order---they are all like cookie cutters) After breakfast we headed over to the eagle-feeding site. We were totally blown away by aprox 300 eagles perching all over the place waiting to be fed. They were 2 feet from our car, and one clipped the car antenna while landing. When the feeding started, it reminded me of gulls feeding, but it was this huge group of eagles with gigantic wingspans. The feeder tried to throw the fish hunks in different places all the time so everyone got something to eat. I’m sure I will never see so many bald eagles in one place and so close again in my life. Vickie and I were amazed when we saw one in a nest in Yellowstone Park. This was beyond description. After the eagle feeding, we reluctantly returned to prepare to leave f or Anchorage. More later.

Wes